Post by Daf on Sept 23, 2004 16:26:19 GMT -5
well this summers trip to france was an interesting one with days from 2ft all the way up to 6ft! first day surfing out in biaritz 2-4ft and clean and bloody crowded, was never ready for the big sets and got an absolute hammering by the thick lipped waves, but i did get some beauties and got hit in the head by a barrell a few times! got out after an hour and went back to the hotel as it was sooooo damn crowded! second day, got up for the morning high tide and walked down to la grande plage from the hotel (wich from the roof had a perfect view of the take-off at les cotes basques heheeh) so see offshore, hollow 2-3ft waves coming through with about 4 others out (wich is great at biarritz) caught loads of waves wich were 100% rippable and was loving it, left at 12.30 wich by then the crowd had come and the wind had gone onshore. 3rd day. got up at 6.30 to get to hossegor by 8 for me surf comp, wich was flouring cancelled 
1ft surf at hossegor, shoulda stayed at biarritz, where it was 2ft+ had some brekky then went back to biarrits, contests gonna be on tommorrow, great! again up at 6.30 beatifull a bit chilly but lovely, arrive at hossegor at 7.45 and some guys told us the comp has been cancelled indefinately, but the surf was a lovely 2ft+ light offshore, glassy and barrelling, total skateparck waves at la nord with steep sections where you have the chance of tucking a barrell or flying off the top or gliding a floater, surfed out there with a 2 spanish guys in a blackey blue ocean looking like coloured glass, pure perfection! caught one beautifull wave, i took off just before the peak, faded my take-off then set my line and squatted into the barrell, this was a wide barrell so i could relax a little in it without trying to be as close to the face as possible, it stayed opening and sectioned really fast but in the end my crappy barrell riding skills were no match for a super fast shorey! and the lip caught my board and i fell, but i was so happy as i got this beautifull vision of the barrell, one of the most stoked sessions of the whole trip! the next 2 days were 2ft+ and offshore in the morning and onshore in the afternoon. day six, went to a campsite away from the lusury of our hotel, and i felt kinda glad, i felt like a bit of a shlong and a snob coming out of the hotel with a board under each arm, lol, but that place had air conditioning witch was great seeing as the usual temp was 30-35C, anyway, today me and pa' travelled up to hossegor where i surfed choppy 2-3ft waves at la graviere, got to surf with some french pros like jeremy flores wich was cool, plenty of chicks on the beach too. Day seven, went to the gromet competition in capbreton to watch and surf with some of the best groms in the world, the surf was 2ft again and the wind light onshore, it was very crowded and hard to find any decent waves as everyone was ripping and i felt very out of place and once i did gather enough courage to move over to the main peak, some piss head of a brazilian grom comes and starts to give me grief and droping in on me, leash pulling etc, in the end i tell him to flour off and i move further up the peak.
Day 8. Back to the grommets today the surf is again 2ft but with offshore winds giving fun conditions and a more friendly atmosphere untill that brazilian turned up and started dropping in on all the brits out in the water.
Day 9. Absolutely amazing day today, 4ft offshore surf, went to bidart to surf this left reef that goes into a beachie, a nice steep take-off widd a barrelling section, then a long wall in the beachie where you can pretty mutch do anything you want then an inside shorey section, got one wave where i got a lovely head high barrell but my board got caught by the lip when i tried to straighten out/stall. it was a great session and some of the locals let have some waves wich was nice, super stoked session. Pictures below are of capbreton that day at the grom comp.
Day 10. 2-3ft bidard, alot out very clean super rippable, what more can i say??
day 11, 3-4ft at meassanges slightly onshore but OK
day 12, nice 3ft offshore at messanges today, managed an hour or so without mutch of a crowd untill everyone and his dog turned up.
day 13 4-5ft howling cross onshore but rideable caught one wave then thought " stuff it i cant be arsed ive had enuff perfect sessions, so i dont need this so then i got out and wen bodysurfing in the shorey, great fun, got a bit sandy though
day 14 well well well,
what a day 5ft+ light offshore barrelling on the inside totally beatifull, super long rides, super stoked surfers, got some great sets hoping from the three different peaks to choose from, the first one beaing the longest and fatest, loads of kooks, loggers and goatboaters on this one, the second peak was faster and had the odd barrell and the third was mutch shorter mutch faster and mutch more hollower, if you picked the right wave you could surf all the way from peak one to the inside of peak three wich was great.
day 15 (last full day) 2ft loads of loggers and some shorties battling it out, I was still knackerd from the day before so was surfing very badly, dropped off and then i got out.
The day we left was pumping 6ft offshore and a fairly small crowd, GUTTED.
1ft surf at hossegor, shoulda stayed at biarritz, where it was 2ft+ had some brekky then went back to biarrits, contests gonna be on tommorrow, great! again up at 6.30 beatifull a bit chilly but lovely, arrive at hossegor at 7.45 and some guys told us the comp has been cancelled indefinately, but the surf was a lovely 2ft+ light offshore, glassy and barrelling, total skateparck waves at la nord with steep sections where you have the chance of tucking a barrell or flying off the top or gliding a floater, surfed out there with a 2 spanish guys in a blackey blue ocean looking like coloured glass, pure perfection! caught one beautifull wave, i took off just before the peak, faded my take-off then set my line and squatted into the barrell, this was a wide barrell so i could relax a little in it without trying to be as close to the face as possible, it stayed opening and sectioned really fast but in the end my crappy barrell riding skills were no match for a super fast shorey! and the lip caught my board and i fell, but i was so happy as i got this beautifull vision of the barrell, one of the most stoked sessions of the whole trip! the next 2 days were 2ft+ and offshore in the morning and onshore in the afternoon. day six, went to a campsite away from the lusury of our hotel, and i felt kinda glad, i felt like a bit of a shlong and a snob coming out of the hotel with a board under each arm, lol, but that place had air conditioning witch was great seeing as the usual temp was 30-35C, anyway, today me and pa' travelled up to hossegor where i surfed choppy 2-3ft waves at la graviere, got to surf with some french pros like jeremy flores wich was cool, plenty of chicks on the beach too. Day seven, went to the gromet competition in capbreton to watch and surf with some of the best groms in the world, the surf was 2ft again and the wind light onshore, it was very crowded and hard to find any decent waves as everyone was ripping and i felt very out of place and once i did gather enough courage to move over to the main peak, some piss head of a brazilian grom comes and starts to give me grief and droping in on me, leash pulling etc, in the end i tell him to flour off and i move further up the peak.Day 8. Back to the grommets today the surf is again 2ft but with offshore winds giving fun conditions and a more friendly atmosphere untill that brazilian turned up and started dropping in on all the brits out in the water.
Day 9. Absolutely amazing day today, 4ft offshore surf, went to bidart to surf this left reef that goes into a beachie, a nice steep take-off widd a barrelling section, then a long wall in the beachie where you can pretty mutch do anything you want then an inside shorey section, got one wave where i got a lovely head high barrell but my board got caught by the lip when i tried to straighten out/stall. it was a great session and some of the locals let have some waves wich was nice, super stoked session. Pictures below are of capbreton that day at the grom comp.
Day 10. 2-3ft bidard, alot out very clean super rippable, what more can i say??
day 11, 3-4ft at meassanges slightly onshore but OK
day 12, nice 3ft offshore at messanges today, managed an hour or so without mutch of a crowd untill everyone and his dog turned up.
day 13 4-5ft howling cross onshore but rideable caught one wave then thought " stuff it i cant be arsed ive had enuff perfect sessions, so i dont need this so then i got out and wen bodysurfing in the shorey, great fun, got a bit sandy though
day 14 well well well,
what a day 5ft+ light offshore barrelling on the inside totally beatifull, super long rides, super stoked surfers, got some great sets hoping from the three different peaks to choose from, the first one beaing the longest and fatest, loads of kooks, loggers and goatboaters on this one, the second peak was faster and had the odd barrell and the third was mutch shorter mutch faster and mutch more hollower, if you picked the right wave you could surf all the way from peak one to the inside of peak three wich was great.day 15 (last full day) 2ft loads of loggers and some shorties battling it out, I was still knackerd from the day before so was surfing very badly, dropped off and then i got out.
The day we left was pumping 6ft offshore and a fairly small crowd, GUTTED.