aus1
Wippersnapper
Posts: 33
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Post by aus1 on Mar 21, 2004 11:04:44 GMT -5
Mine's a 12ft at bronte reef got the take off but closed out to fast and got smashed under for a long long time pretty scarry
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Daf
Groover
Still a grom ;)
Posts: 49
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Post by Daf on Mar 21, 2004 13:40:56 GMT -5
madness man, mine was a 5 ft (face) barrelling and pretty heavy at avalanche in france, ive been out on a couple of 6ft days but i always hesitate on the paddle and get caught inside, like 1 day id had a perfect avalanche session (the day i got that wave-5ft) and the swell built to 6ft i mean its only a foot bigger but you can really feel it, but it might be me as im only tiny, anyway it got to six foot i caught 2 waves in a 3 hour session, all the others were bad wipeouts with the lip throwing over and me getting too deep in the barrell, wiping out, hitting reef, bad hold down me coming up gasping for air and swimming my ass off for the channell paddle back out and wait for a small set. i guess 5ft isnt very big but its probably my limit at the mo, HEAVY WAVES FOREVER!!
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aus1
Wippersnapper
Posts: 33
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Post by aus1 on Mar 21, 2004 14:40:26 GMT -5
That time was a one off plus it was warm water, there's no way i'd try 12ft on the east coast unless i was really up for it and it was realy clean, But on the east coast north bay you get every month or so in winter you get regular 7,8ft sets coming in which on the right day are surfable, Have to keep paddling like flour though
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Hen
Wippersnapper
Iawny towny
Posts: 23
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Post by Hen on Mar 21, 2004 15:47:50 GMT -5
France 6ft ( 8ft faces) shorey at Capbreton. At your average u'k spot that's 8-10 ft or so, so powerful its rediculous and almost as hollow as high
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Post by PapaW on Mar 30, 2004 7:01:05 GMT -5
Woolacombe a fair few years ago, it was high tide and the best I have ever seen the wedge work (and its a right hander ) The swell had been building all evening on the unusually high tide I was the only one left out back as everyone had paddled for the set I went through on the way back out and then it hit... I saw the massive lines approaching seeing everyone else start paddling franticly to avoid getting chunned i quite casually paddled a bit further to the breaking point. I left the 1st one becuase it was insanely big and would have closed out but the 2nd of the set stepped up with the rebound of the 1st and BOOM!!! massive wedge had to be double what Ceriad was on the big swell weekend all face! ZOOOOOOOOOOM took off with so much speed, carved it down the face at almost 90degrees to make the bottom turn. It took a little too long and I missed the barrel but managed to tuck up just afterfor a smaller sectin. I darn't try anythign fancy on that cause I would have been chunned! Came off and casually paddled back feeling like I was floating in space! What made it better is the fact I knew all the people out where watching as they paddled out plus everyone up on the cliff as it was early evening when everyone had their fish and chips sat eating! Class
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zeb
Groover
funckey spongey
Posts: 44
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Post by zeb on Mar 30, 2004 7:10:16 GMT -5
hehe wicked luv the explnation of the speed there ' ZOOOOOOOOOM' hehe mines the same as hens, capbreton shorey, bloody huge, quite funny watching a mate trying to get back onto the beach with a 6 ft shorey slamming him he also manged to loose a fin, but found it about half a mile down the beach due to the rip all gud fun
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aus1
Wippersnapper
Posts: 33
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Post by aus1 on Mar 30, 2004 11:04:13 GMT -5
Anything over 2ft on the east coast would be good at the moment
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Bumble
Wippersnapper
Committiee
Posts: 32
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Post by Bumble on Mar 30, 2004 11:58:19 GMT -5
Anything as big as 2ft in North Wales would be good now!
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Daf
Groover
Still a grom ;)
Posts: 49
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Post by Daf on Mar 30, 2004 12:20:07 GMT -5
yeah i need something challenging, i dont think ive had perfect waves since france this summer
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Post by PapaW on Mar 30, 2004 13:08:17 GMT -5
I have
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Daf
Groover
Still a grom ;)
Posts: 49
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Post by Daf on Mar 30, 2004 13:18:20 GMT -5
bastardo
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zeb
Groover
funckey spongey
Posts: 44
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Post by zeb on Mar 31, 2004 3:53:09 GMT -5
boooooooooo hehe bring on summer
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